Miles Per Hour

Fast rollers in the Pull Out

 After a few weeks of much needed vacation, Gentle Readers of This Blog, I got back up to The College.  I was in KS to see Little Egypt for a spell, and also bid Rico farewell as he's off to Germanland for the summer.  How I wish life was easier, and that we could all live in the same country - but jobs and War have taken us so far for the last few years.  Little E wants me home but, as in AZ all those years ago, there were no jobs.  Also in KS no jobs.  So I work as I do - at least I have a job and in my profession.  It pay the bills.

As much as I want to be home, the mountains and this land, as harsh as they sometimes are - have slowly endeared themselves to me.  I feel in my heart a real love for the land - the birds, the greening grasses and trees - the high strung Mustangs I encounter - and the darting and singing birds everywhere. 

Living at the elevation I do - and in this clear mountain air - I could tell on my vacation that my lungs had power.  I noticed this walking up five flights of stairs at our hotel in Orlando, FL - I found that I was hardly winded.  I'm not bragging - it's just that for many months I could hardly breathe up here.  Now with some time, gradually I am stronger. 

On my return up here, and now that summer has all the students away - it is quiet and slowed down.  The weather was for me, heavenly - so I left my place at 5:45 pm and headed out with the Mighty Trek, and the plan was to ride down the first Pull Out of the Monument, and return.

A rare evening ride for Yours

 No traffic as I roll out, mes amis.  I see my pals, like Le Tigre down in Tucson, with incredible average speeds!  Try as I may, I can't seem to get that MPH up.  Compared to last time when I rode down to the Mummy Cave Pull Out at Canyon de Chelly, I was just a wee bit slower.  Today I was at 14.4 MPH average speed for the 30 mile round-trip trek - last time 14.6 average speed.

So I try to take less photos and just pedal - that can slow you down getting the camera out.  Wind plays a part too.  Even though I am riding fast as I can - the headwind will slow me down, and sometimes coming back instead of the tailwind I have a headwind again.

Also compared to when I first went out, I am much improved.  The first trip I did I could barely breathe, Gentle Readers of This Blog.  Not only a struggle for a breath, but feeling the insides of my chest burning on fire, and  my lungs pushing my rib cage out! 

Tsaile, Arizona, Navajo Nation

Tonight I glided and found a groove.  Always difficult the first four miles because I have to climb "Benally Hill."  After that, after the lungs, heart, and rib cage wake up - things are smooth.  Mostly the out trip is down-hill, and I reach my top speed (tonight) of 31 MPH. 

The air is cool and the sun makes everything hazy - the headwind is a winding down and the roar, like in the mornings, is more like an echo in my ears.  Also, I'm not wearing the warmers and jacket.  It's like Tucson Days on the fast commute home - after working and sitting on your butt, your tired body gives way and blood mixed with oxygen being forced into you  and that powers-up your body.

Pretty soon I'm charging into the Pull Out - a coyote eyes me from a safe distance as I zip into the parking lot of Massacre Cave Overlook. 

Going back now, I am tired, mes amis - just keep pedaling.  I have a crosswind that seems more like a headwind mostly - but at some point - I don't know where - I get that tailwind that's so sweet, and now I'm flying back to Tsaile.

For some reason I could not shift down into my small ring (I have a triple ring) and for the last climb up Benally Hill - the real hard last climb that seems to want to kill you - as I said I could not get the thing to shift so I had to just man-up and shred my legs.  I made it okay actually, but I could feel the cramps starting out in my calves - that means I'm in trouble.  But then I sailed down the road you see above, and soon was gliding home.

For a bit later after the ride, the legs cramped but then things were okay. 

Now this evening I need to rest - but tomorrow evening I'll go back out there!

Take care and keep reading my blog.  Check back now and then.  I'm still here!

Cheers!  Bruce

An Arrow and an Omelette

At the Entrance of Canyon de Chelly Nat'l Monument

This past weekend was forecast to be perfect!  I was also invited to attend a breakfast at the hotel restaurant right there at the Monument entrance.  Meeting at 9 am on a Saturday morning meant I'd have to leave The College at 7 am.  Well, at close to 7 am, all set to ride, it was still about 35 degrees!  But just seemed that it would warm quickly as I rode down the mountain - and also there was no wind!  Incredible!  So although there was a sting in the air from the cold, I was quickly rolling out.

With no wind, I flew down Hwy 64 like an arrow!  Part way, I startled some wild ponies and they dashed off and stomped and were bit upset to be surprised by a cyclist.  Again, with no headwind, which is usually the case going down to Chinle, my two hour ride ended up being an hour and 15 minutes from what I could tell.  I just wanted to keep going because I was wanting to keep up a higher average speed.  I hammered really hard - why not?  I mean usually I've go the wind roaring in my ears from riding down - this time it was beautiful!

So I met these people at the restaurant - what it was was my former colleague in this job (I had never met her) and ended up she was passing through town and all her teacher and librarian friends met her and met up with each other.  My breakfast was good - a Denver Omelette -  but mainly everybody was catching up.  It got kind of rowdy and loud - the folks I was with were a bit odd and I didn't really fit in - but they were nice enough. 

Oh yeah, some son-of-a-bitch stole my tool bag from my bike - that really sucked.  So for my hellish ride back up the mountain, I had no patch kit, no wrenches, no spare tube, etc.  Luckily, they didn't take my tire pump.  I took my Garmin off the handle bars and put in my pocket before breakfast - basically anything that someone could steal they took.  This was right at the entrance of the hotel.  Of course I had brought by big (and heavy to carry) bike lock, so at least they didn't steal my bike!

 

The ride back up was okay at first, but then as I started to get up into the High Country, a very strong cross-wind kind of beat me up.  Also, it was getting pretty warm out!  So I slugged it out for the way home, gusty wind, and hot and sweaty going.

About 8 miles out from Home

I want to tell you that I've shed some weight - about 20 pounds!  Being lighter makes a difference on the bike!  And up in the mountains and with the altitude, being lighter and not a fat guy helps - so what I'm saying is that I feel pretty strong, Gentle Readers of This Blog.  I'm no longer gasping for air like I was on my short commutes to work.

For the 50 mile ride, I averaged 14.5 MPH which is a vast improvement - mainly because there was no wind going down...  As the days are getting warmer and longer, I will try to go out and do a few hours before the sun starts to go down.  

Hwy 64 is really the only safe road for me to ride on - its good training for sure, but I'd like to get out and do some more riding to other places.  Just have to do an out and back - unless I want to do about 20 miles on narrow, busy, and really bad rez roads.  I just don't think I'm ready just yet!

Cheers!  Bruce

The Rock with Wings

I've been driving to The College campus in Shiprock, NM, a few days a week to help out at the library there.  Those mornings I drive over the mountain and then I pass Shiprock - I must tell you Gentle Readers of This Blog - it really is out in the middle of nowhere...  Shiprock is the largest city or town on the Rez.  There's a good Chinese Place there.  Living where I do in Tsaile, I'm pretty far from most everything, so I welcome a chance to eat out.

Still, I am amazed at the vastness of the this place.  I was visiting Tucson not long ago, and the first thing that I struck by was all the people!  Everything was so crowded it seemed.  Here at The College, the landscape is mostly the high country - in Tucson, it's Walmart, CVS or Walgreens on every corner - and just other shit you don't need.  And again, all the cars and people and everyone rushing around.

I stayed with my friends and neighbors up in Dog Mtn!  The pups are always glad to see me, and its a chance for my friends B and H to take a break and sleep in, while the dogs and I go for long walks in the desert!

Weather is warmer and I am still riding my bike everywhere.  May is Bike to Work Week, and believe me -  my bike works! 

It was the Pow Wow and I went as many of my friends were dancing.

My boss' people hail from Oklahoma where I'm from - here is is representing the Cherokee Nation.

When I was in Tucson it was 90 degrees on the campus - it was beautiful and awesome!  I drove back to a few inches of snow on the ground and very cold and windy weather.  But, thank goodness, those winds and rain and snow clouds are fading, and warm weather is here!

Cheers!  Bruce

Sunday Ride in the Nat'l Park

A warm Easter Sunday

Finally, Gentle Readers of This Blog - finally I get out on the Mighty Trek!  Saturday was a bust as it rained all day.  The forecast called for more rain Easter Sunday - however whatever it was that came through was gone, and now things were clear!  The temps were quickly climbing so with haste I got the bike ready and then set out right at 10 a.m. - 45 degrees - and I'm happy to report NO WIND!

On the Western Boundary of Canyon de Chelly

After the rain, and now with sunshine, the air is sweet-smelling - I can feel and taste the fragrance of sage in my lungs - it's a good healthy breathe to take, Gentle Readers of This Blog!  I'm dressed just right - there still is a bit of a head wind but it does not have that cold bite like back in February and March.

I really want to see if I can improve my time, so I'm only going down to the Mummy Cave Pullout at the Monument.  Round-trip should be right at 30 miles.  With no real heavy wind to ride into, I'm riding pretty fast (for me) and actually I'm not gasping for air as in the past.  Very slowly I think I'm getting used to the altitude of where I live.

Still, while climbing in a headwind, the heart rate on my Garmin goes up pretty high - but my chest isn't on fire like the other rides down this road.  Rain is forecast to come back later today, so I want to get out and home before the wind really starts to get going.  I can see the storm coming, but for now it is far away.

Spider Rock, and in the left top corner, Black Rock

I pulled this image out from when I drove out to Canyon de Chelly and did a hike.  Then I drove up to the Spider Rock Pullout.  You can see Black Rock up there on the left.  There has got to be a way to ride from there to where I am - one big loop.  I need to once again find that Park Ranger and see what he says.  I would only ride back on Indian 12 as last resort - it would be very dangerous.

While coming down to Mummy Cave Pullout, I was passed by some Buck driving about 100 mph - I kid you not!  It was unnerving!  Hwy 64 that runs from Tsaile to Chinle, and then to the Monument Visitor Center is a tough and rugged road - but is has a shoulder.  The speed limit is 55 and really if you drive faster than that you are inviting disaster.  You can lose control, but even as I rode, there were cows, horses, and sheep right on the shoulder.  I also passed a big deer carcass on the shoulder coming back - you can easily hit a deer and get hurt, lose control of your car, and crash and burn!

After a short rest at the Pullout, I headed back.  Normally I would have had a better tailwind, but this time it was more like a crosswind.  With about 8 or 9 miles to go, the road heads back up in a more Northeasterly direction.  That gave me my tailwind and a push up the last two big climbs before I start my fast four mile descent back to The College.

Allure Libre!

My average speed today was 14.6 MPH, which is much better than the 13.2 (or maybe it was 12. something) the first time I was out here.  This road, kind of straight and not too exciting, is a course I can ride after work - go out for an hour to the Pullout, and then return, and well before dark.

Happy Easter!  Cheers!  Bruce

Cowboy on a Bicycle

Black Rock is an ancient volcano high on the Defiance Plateau

With some warmer weather, but still a lot cold wind these days, I have not gone out on the road bike.  Warm days melted the snow and muddy roads began to dry out.  I need to be outside, Gentle Readers of This Blog - I planned to ride out to Black Rock this day, which I was told was about 5 or 7 miles ride.  It turned out to be more like 12.

Rain and wind now seem to always be planning something - I've done the ride down to Canyon de Chelly, and this trip I wanted to see if I might take the road bike on some of these very hard-packed dirt roads.  I figured I'd just go out a few miles and back - take my time.

Tsaile Lake, and Tsaile Peak

Pretty quick, even on the Desert San Campus Bike, once I leave my place and The College, the world is big and wide open!  I plan to ride out to the Peak, hide the bike, then hike and climb the Peak...

The Sun is bright and I need to protect my white skin these days.  I'm not riding fast - should be wearing my helmet - but the locals know me by my straw hat.  Little Egypt bought it for me, and well, it has become part of my persona I guess.  But it keeps the Sun's rays from burning me, even at 7200 feet in the mountains.  Anyway, back in Tucson, I got the worst sunburn in my life in February!  Plus, this way I don't feel like I got to race or hurry.

Most Northern Boundary of Canyon de Chelly Nat'l Monument

All the country is new and I want to know it - if I'm going to ride the road bike, I want to sense where I am by the feel and look of he mountains and trees, and the Sun and the feel and look of the road.  Each mile has a different color and hardness - sometimes as you reach the pines, the air smells of a cool earthy dryness.

With the Desert San, it's pretty slow-going mes amis.  I have to tell you I still have on the studded snow tires (from Lawrence, KS via Finland) and they roll heavy on the hard road.  Mostly the road is bumpy and dry.  I would not want to drive my car out here for sure as it would get beat all to Hell.

The few people that live out here probably drive as fast as they can without going out of control - probably just don't care.  From their big four-wheel drive monster type trucks - that thick peanut-butter sticky mud seems to have flung everywhere to the sides of the road.  Here's a sign asking to slow a bit going through here.  "SLOW: Cows on the Road!"

Going out, the headwind I have is fierce!  And I'm really sweating too because, I'm having to pretty much climb over a ridge.  But as was reported to me, Black Rock is only five or six miles from The College I should see it soon!

I finally get over the ridge - looking on, I see more open road and I must be on top of one of the mesas out here.  Road is mostly rough, but with the road bike and my 25 cm tires, I can probably roll pretty quick - the Desert San is heavy and like driving a tank.  And I've seen no cars - so I could probably ride on the best part of the grooves if I have too.

I'm riding along the boundary of the Nat'l Park.  

Old Hogans from times past start to appear out here.  Looks like was good grazing for herds of sheep.  But I have seen no sheep or cattle, and no people.  There are power lines, and they look recent.

The wind is howling, but it doesn't have the cold sting like before.

As always, there will be wind, I'm traveling a bit faster than what Navajo families would be on horseback and by wagon.  I know the tail wind will help me get back faster - and I'll be going downhill mostly.  Still, where is Black Rock?

Black Rock!  My but it still seems far away.   I saw it from about this distance from Spider Rock Pullout when I drove out there in early March.  I talked to a Park Ranger, who was Navajo and he told me that day that Black Rock was between where we were and The College.  Canyon de Chelly is all around but seems like ridges and mountains hide things.  Like it's secret somehow.

Navajo friends tell me you can get down to the canyon and Chinle, but other say you can't - nobody knows for sure but they think I would probably get lost or that riding a bike is just crazy.  One day I might find the road the locals use.  Or they might be right, there's really no way but driving around, all the way around to get to Chinle.

I start to see a few very nice ranches out here.  I believe there's a way to get down to Chinle because if you lived out here, you would have to drive more than 60 miles out of your way to just get gas or groceries.  Best to go by car sometime but that would really tear things up.  I think I'd take the road bike (now I wish I had a gravel bike!) so I could cover more miles.  Again this is just recon for future rides I do, Gentle Readers of This Blog.

Ranchers wave and I'm sure if the old man driving would have stopped to talk to me, he may have told me some information about where this road might intersect.  I suspect with HWY 7, which is all dirt - but I would have to cross into the Park (where there are no tourist pullouts or trails) which I am not allowed without a Navajo Guide.

Very windy now, and getting late.  A photo this time for you and me will have to do.  If I went further the road might end right at the canyon - which I must tell you from what I have seen, is a 900 foot drop.  But there has to be a road that gets me somewhere.   There is a nice ranch here and I don't want to ride around (it is late in the afternoon) and impose on someone's place.  If I could hike to the top, I am sure that I might recognize landmarks, and maybe see some roads to take to Chinle.

Looking back from where I am, just about half mile from Black Rock, I can see that I have about 10 or 12 miles to get back - and rain clouds are creeping up to the Chuska Mountains.  

Now with a tailwind firmly pushing me back, I am flying over the hard road.  I'm a bit low on water too.  I only brought one water bottle when I should have had two.

This old Hogan might still be used as a summer camp, but like many of my Navajo friends say, old folks that used these camps have passed on, and the families seldom use them and keep them up.  They begin to go back into the landscape.  Sometimes the more disrespectful element may steal the logs to use and sell as firewood.  But mostly out here, they just seem to fade and dissolve back into ground.

For now, I'm staying on the main roads - there are scores of other roads that seem to go this way and that.  They're most likely logging roads - or a road to go up and cut firewood.  On my GPS maps, these  roads criss cross and look to go here and there - they're the roads where you can get lost.  Anyway, my road bike can't go too far on them.  But on these hard packed ones, I bet I can go deep into this county.

The College would be off the left a few miles, but this view is much like the view I see when I'm coming back on Hwy 64 after riding down to The Visitor Center at the Monument - except this time about about 10 miles East (maybe less) from 64 on from this dirt road.  I'm kind of surprised that I climbed this high, and in a stiff headwind - now I have a fast downhill.  I really had to take it easy because the dirt although dry, is very rough in places.  It was nice to have an effortless glide down, and no wind roaring in my ears - now I hear signs of Spring with thousands of birds chirping and calling out warnings that a Cowboy on a Bicycle is cutting by the pines.

I want to tell you that a Red Tailed Hawk swooped down to see what I was, and then hung in the air above me for details of my construction - was I machine? or living thing?  But as the late afternoon sun shone on his brilliant wings - and tail feathers - I was witness to what gives him his name!  Tail so red and then him glowing yellow and orange!  Like a Sun himself!

Why all the beer cans and liquor bottles along the road?  Alcohol is illegal on the Rez.  So to not have it on your person if stopped by the Navajo Police,  you toss the empties out the window.   You can rarely go 50 or 100 feet without a beer can or bottle of rot gut in the ditch.  It's foul litter, and even out here in the remotest places, trash is everywhere.

Also, people just throw out everything - coke cans, water bottles - and diapers.  For the most part, Navajo people I know love this land and are very connected to it - I don't get why others don't care.  You don't want to have empties (evidence you've been drinking) so throwing shit out the window is the simple solution.

The College, and to the right, a dam built by the NPS to stem the flow of water down into Canyon de Chelly.  NPS is trying to slow down erosion that would wash away the ancient ruins down there.  The lake is supposed to have trout in it.  I could (and might) hike a bit down into the canyon and get trout out of the streams that flow.  But might just get a fishing pole and try my luck in the lake.

Tsaile Lake and the ice has melted.  Probably time to go fishing!

I had a good ride today!  24 miles round-trip!

A Cowboy on Bike!  That was fun!  I'm glad you came by to check out the blog.

Cheers!  Bruce

Living on the Nation

Spring in the Mountains

I have to tell you all that I am happy and healthy - March and most of April have been constant snow and wind.  I have only been able to ride my bike to work and back.   That's okay as my studded snow tires have served me well!   I want to get out on the road bike soon!

Campus Spring Snow Storm

But as soon as the snow comes, it melts - and a then a thin layer of new green begins to creep into the county-side.  Even with another snow, the green grows bolder.

Tsaile Peak, an ancient volcano core

Navajo friends tell me a lot of different things about Tsaile Peak, which I am wanting to hike and climb too the top.  Everyone agrees that you get up from the North side - but there will be deep snow until Summer.  Some tell me you walk right to the top, others say there's a rope you will find and it helps you reach the top.  One of the Facilities Men tells me he was up there when he was about 15 years old - now that he is in his 60's he says the way to get up there, the rocks have fallen off so now you can't get up.  I am happy to report that everyone says there are no spirits or gods that would be upset should I explore, so that's good.

The Blue Birds have arrived and we have this couple building a nest

The Big Murder of Crows, and I must tell you Gentle Readers of This Blog that they are Big and Black and a Tough Bunch - they have built a huge nest, full of large twigs and branches, in the eaves of the library's roof.  But now Blue Birds - I call Little Friends - have arrived.  They are busy and curious and just seems that they are waiting for the right moment to build their nests.  No one will really tell me, but they have a symbolic part to play in the Navajo Religion.  I will leave it at that -

Last Bull Ride

My Navajo friends from work invited me to go to the Inter-Collegiate Rodeo a few weeks ago.  I have never been to a rodeo, and it was fun - at the Fairgrounds in Window Rock.  Navajo Cowboys are much respected - my colleague's son is a Bull Rider.  He's about to ride and she's going to try and capture the few seconds he will be on that beast's back.

I actually met the Rodeo Clown - he was from Tulsa like me - and he explained to me what was going on and how things worked.  These men and women were young college students.  He told me that a lot of the cowboys in the pros are ex-football players.  If some of these guys don't play pro football, they become pro rodeo cowboys.  You have to be that athletic to do what they do.  I saw many a young man and young woman get slammed into the dirt and mud - the broncs and bulls were huge and ferocious.

I rooted for The College, but there was a young Cowboy from University of Arizona, and ranked 5th in the College Rodeo Circut as a Bronc Rider - I have to tell you that the horse he drew slammed him face-first into the ground in half a second.  It was a tough night for everyone.

Luckily, it was a warm night and I didn't freeze.  The best part of going to the rodeo really was that since I drove us down to Window Rock with my car, my boss bought us dinner