Ghosts of Free Kansas

Named after a judge Lecompte--who rallied residents for Kansas to be a Slave State.

Lecompton was a destination that we tried to reach a few weeks ago but we ran out of time--plus the wind was bearing down on us so we had to turn back. With better weather, and an early start, I set out for the old Kansas Territory Capital of "Slave Kansas."

Many people wanted Kansas to come into the Union as Slave --others wanted Kansas a Free State. When it looked like KS would be a Free State after all, folks picked up and moved to Topeka. Lecompton withered--but there still remains pre-Civil War divisions in the air even now.

Crossing the Kansas River at Lawrence--what's left of some old manufacturing plants from the the 1870's. The Great Flood of 1903 destroyed all that industry and it was never rebuilt.

On the bike you head out of Old Historic Downtown, cross the River, and soon ride into lines drawn between pre-Civil War ideologies. Lawrence and Lecompton were competing for what was hoped would be a lucrative steam boat spot on the Kansas River. When the river proved mostly un-reliable because of low water levels, both towns struggled. When the rail line finally reached Lawrence after the Civil War, fortunes changed for Lawrence.

Grain Elevator in Old North Lawrence across the river.

I'll be taking Hwy 24 North and then West to Lecompton--and then circle back on the Old Farmer's Turnpike to this Grain Elevator and rail hub. This is where the farmers have brought their corn and grain to ship to markets for over 150 years.

Fertile green fields of America's Heartland.

Old School House built in 1869 on Hwy 24 Heading West.

The Civil War between the North and South ended when the North destroyed the South militarily and culturally. Kansas was Free--to keep it free, education would be high on the list for the new residents to supplant any notion of a Slave State--school houses are everywhere out here.

Farm House from those days aging gracefully.

A tailwind helping me along at a good clip, mes amis!

With the wind in my favor, I cut through the cool morning air West on Hwy 24--the Hwy follows the base of the bluffs, and I pass emerald green landscapes--glowing with corn fields and thick green grass . I was making good time, Gentle Reader of This Blog, and stopped at the historical marker below, just before the small village of Perry.

Click on the photo to read the marker as it will be larger.

Perry High School, and those endless miles of cornfields I ride past!

I found an open restaurant in Perry! On a Sunday morning! But I did not stop in today--maybe next time.

In Perry, I stopped a local fellow out getting his morning paper and asked for some directions. He said I was on the right road--keep going, then over the Kaw, then "Lee Compton" as I hear people say the name. I think people believe the town was named after a guy named Lee.

Riding down this road that will take me into old Slave Kansas...

I'll cross the river into Lecompton here at the old ferry crossing. I get an eerie feeling because had I been riding out here in 1858, I may not have been welcome.

My great great grandfather was living in Highland, Kansas Territory--about 90 miles North-east on the Kansas-Missouri border (Near St. Joseph, MO.) and I don't know what their feelings were on the matter. I believe, deep down in my blood, that they were for Free Kansas.

Over the Kansas River.

Lecompton High School.

Lecompton was a nice place--but I didn't want to stick around and explore. Mainly because to ride into the older historic part of town, I'd have to climb some hills. Just was wanting to get back to Lawrence--I'll save that exploration for next time.

"You a Jayhawker, there Pilgrim?" Cattle eye me with suspicion, even now, after the War Between the States mes amis!

438 is what's known as the Farmer's Turnpike.


Heading East on the Farmer's Turnpike--an old historic route for taking crops to market and the rail hub back in Lawrence.

My tail wind didn't last--now a bit of a cross wind--still I rode well and enjoyed the fact that there was no traffic out here at all. I wondered what it would have been like on a horse, or pulling a team loaded with grain? It would have been about an 8 or 9 mile trip.

Interstate 70 runs along side the Farmers Turnpike for several miles.

Occasionally, I-70 would come into view. Cars streaming past endlessly it seemed. Driving to Kansas City from about where I am only takes about 30 minutes...

From another time--a school house built in 1869.

A Rural Volunteer Fire Station on the Farmer's Turnpike--if need be, they can get right on I-70 to help out in emergencies.

Tractor and Port-a-John.

I used the Port-a-Pottie--or Port-a-John as they're sometimes called, which was being guarded by this old tractor. I would say that it was almost an old rust-bucket--its main job mowing this field.

As not a lot of these old roads are used, sometime the maps lack a few details. I think this is about where I am.

I pass the power plant that allows me to have electricity to have this computer and write this blog, Gentler Readers.

The Farmer's Turnpike ends here at one of the grain stations--now quite modern.

Back in Lawrence.

The problem with this ride is that there's no fast way through the Northwest side of old Lawrence. I'm having to ride through the old streets that hug the Kansas River Banks--then I have to cross busy 6th Street, or ride on it about a mile. Traffic is heavy!

Downtown! The Ethridge Hotel built in 1858.

Thanks for coming along for the ride!

Cheers! Bruce

KS SUV

Kansas SUV from about 150 years ago.

I made an early morning trip to Baldwin City, Kansas, due South of Interzone mes amis. This was the route my next door neighbor Dave had told me about, then the boys at work said they like to do sometimes--mainly because there's a challenging climb right up into Baldwin.

Neighbor Dave told me that the local riders call this route the Palmyra Climb, which is the old township name for that area of the county. It was a great climb indeed Gentler Readers of This Blog! Being a bit out of shape didn't help me but I made it with no trouble--just reminded me of my old after-work-slog up Swan Ave back in Tucson--or The Boss and I making that steady march up Craycroft to Ina Rd, and then on to Sin Vacas--after a morning climbing Catalina Hwy...

Bon jour!

Kansas is windy y'all. And muggy hot. I got The Mighty Trek and my stuff ready to go so first thing to do when I wake up is get my spandex-covered ass out the door. There's no traffic and the air is cool and still. Before you can say Bruce's Bike Blog, I'm well into the Wilds!

Muddy Water on the high road, and Muddy Waters (with U2) on the iPod.

Early on a weekday morning there's little traffic. Kansas People have not even got out of bed and started driving their Kansas Selves to work. I have the day off, c'est bon! Actually, the radio has been saying there's a Heat Advisory for today--which means it will be 100 degrees, humid, and then possibly thunderstorms later! Don't you just love Kansas?

Kansas is not as flat as you think. The Hills have a sister; The Wind...

I'm out on roads I've never ridden which is pretty exciting. I know I could get lost but who cares? Thing is out here in the Wilds is that there are steady climbs and a good amount of hill-work to keep you moving--and the wind owns this place, mon cher! Do not forget it and just be glad the head wind is only 15 mph and not 35.

The thin ribbon of road through The Green Fields and Battlements of Trees!

Old Grandpa House--and a good landmark to remember the course by.

Swimmin' Hole. I'll remember this spot for sure!

Learn to Fly, then go to Church!

The church and airport at the village of Vinland are important landmarks on the course--they are right where the lads at work said they'd be. From here it will be a straight shot to Baldwin City. Traffic will be a bit heavier, but I'm going South into town whereas Kansas People are heading the other direction for Lawrence, Topeka, and Kansas City.

Narrow road for the long steady ascent up Palmyra Hill.

The county road I'm on that will climb into Baldwin cuts a thin slice through very thick trees all around this township, and signs advise warning of low-visabilty. I take that to mean be careful and don't drive too fast--but the locals ignore that I'm sure. Lucky for me the traffic is light and mostly coming the other way. I also have my tiny Messenger Mirror that Le Tigre got for me--it works great out here and I can see cars coming up from behind. It gives me peace of mind as the wind out here on the roads roar in your ears--it is very hard to hear cars coming up from behind you, Gentler Readers of This Blog. It also makes me feel a bit more comfortable wearing earphones from my iPod. The music and earphones actually muffle the wind noise.

Now for a fast descent into town.

I was gonna be looking for the McD's that people told me would be a place I could stop and get water. I was really hoping that someone could recommend a good diner or breakfast place to stop into. Anyway, it was 8 o'clock and the McDonalds was one of those combination McD's and a Chevron or something like that. Should I stay or should I go? by the Clash was on my iPod--so I decided to go, mes amis. I had one full water bottle, didn't have to pee, and had seen an interesting place I passed coming just into town. I turned around, went a pace or so, and then turned into the driveway/entrance of some Bishop's House. I didn't quite make out the sign, but it said Bishop Somebody's Retirement House--maybe a historical landmark? Anyway, the gate was open and it felt welcoming.

The Mighty Trek at Bishop's Gate.

I enjoyed the pleasant surroundings and ate my Pop-Tarts and drank a bit of water. The air was cool and the trees swayed peacefully that surrounded the big place at the end of the drive--which didn't look like it got much use. I think the Old Place was happy to have a visitor. I left a few small pieces of Pop-Tart crust on the fence post for the birds--they had spied I had something and were clamoring above hoping to scavenge anything I might leave behind.

Kansas People in their cars were now streaming out of Baldwin City and I looked for a gap in the traffic so as to get back on the road. Pretty soon I was at the top of the Palmyra Hill and looking at a pretty fast descent! I let a few cars pass me at the top there, and seeing no one behind me in the mirror, I hammered down the hill! Maximum speed was 45 mph!

Coasting past farms in the Palmyra Township.

I had a very nice tailwind for my ride back, mes amis! I was flying home. Photos for you on the wing didn't turn out, and I didn't really want to slow down and take some shots on the account that my momentum was most excellent!

Click to make the picture larger, mes amis--KU Campus about 8 or 9 miles away as the crow flies.

Tail wind for the trip home.

Back to Interzone with a tail wind meant that my average speed was 17 mph for the 15 and a half miles back to The Little House from where I left Bishop's Gate. I cut through Haskell Campus and the old Rail Trail instead of riding the busy streets of Interzone. That's a nice cool down and a safe and direct route back home.

Thanks for coming along on my day off--even as I write this post this afternoon, I can see the strong gusts of wind blowing every tree in the tops through town.

Cheers! Bruce

Interzone Summer

Riding out to Clinton Lake.

We were not able to get out for a ride until Noon--which made the ride a bit tough as it was very hot, mes amis! I had never been out to the big lake, plus Ron was needing to get back earlier this time. It was hot, we were pressed for time--so we did Ron's short (30 miles) Crit training course.

Clinton Lake.

We rode out to Clinton Lake to where you can actually go up to the water. Here is where boats put in--everything smelled very lake and fishy--and it was pretty hot and humid too.

Taking a break in the shade before we head back.

Lake is in the background--shade is nice but like I said, the smelled pretty ripe--like rotting bait and oily-gas from the boats.

Heading back into town.

Bike Path in the Clinton Lake Spillway.

Ron told me he believes he saw a cougar out here in the tall reeds one early morning while out riding. The bike running path starts at near the edge of town and goes out to the lake. The mountain bikers use bike path in the spillway as a highway to get to what I've heard are excellent trails around the lake.

The bike path also is part of an old rail line that cuts through a few farms on the edge of the city.

A little girl biking...

Trees provide some shade and a break from the gusty wind now starting up this afternoon.

Main Haskell building from 1884.

Ron takes off for home so I cut through Haskell Campus to get back to our Little House in Old East Lawrence.

Victory Arch built in 1926 to honor American Indian War Dead.

Got a bit of a sunburn this afternoon--need to wear sunscreen!

Thanks for stopping by my blog--Cheers! Bruce

Band Aid Interzone

Midnight run with some drum parts Rico forgot for the show.

When Rico plays at the clubs with his band, I usually go out and see them play. This show was going to be about Midnight--which means 12:30 or close to 1 a.m. I had to work the next morning, so I thought I'd sit this one out--but Rico called me and needed something for his drums that he'd forgotten--so I rode down to the pub about two miles away to get the parts to him.

Summer time and bikes and beer go together--along with a good band.

I thought I would stay as his band was supposed to go first--instead they went last. The first band was pretty good but the second band was pretty freakin' loud, mes amis! I had forgotten to bring ear plugs--dang!

Setting up the drums for their set.

The band before Rico's, from Oklahoma City, is a pretty awesome group of young guys--however Gentle Readers of This Blog--this time they arrived shit-faced drunk. Also they were all of them pretty stoned as well. They were off and things didn't go so good. Normally they're right on the money but lately they've showed up and been lame.

Sad that this has to happen to these young musicians--they're talented, but they often go down that road of being plastered and stoned before, during, and after their shows. To drive five or six hours all the way up from OKC--just to play for 200 bucks or less--then get totally fucked-up is a waste.

Shit beer.

Rico is on the far right--the guys had a good show! Rico's band had one of their best shows ever!

Riding home at 1:30 a.m. after the show.

A great show for Rico and there was a big audience that had a good time--I needed to get home and get some sleep, so I slipped outta there. The night was actually cool and peaceful as I zipped home on the Campus Bike. But then all of the sudden it was like every Interzone Police Cruiser came blasting into town from all directions--sirens and lights--a very dramatic entrance with a light show to boot. One patrol car came speeding past me at like 50 MPH, mes amis!

Oh yeah, my ears have been ringing all weekend--got to always have ear plugs!

Cheers! Bruce

Memorial Day in God's Country

Returning from God's Country after a holiday weekend ride.

I put in the miles this Memorial Day Weekend, Gentle Readers of This Blog--but sorry for forgetting the camera, and then just being too much into the ride to pull the camera out and take a few shots for you.

Meeting up with Ron, and riding with a chap just a bit stronger than you--and with a desire and passion to discover every mile of this place--we rode at break-neck speeds and covered many a Summer Kansas mile.

Saturday was a fierce early morning ride to beat thunderstorms and a tornado or two--I kid you not! That was the morning I forgot the camera, mes amis. But is was cold and over-cast and we had to wear arm and leg warmers--what? In May? Yes we did!

Sunday morning we were set for yet another ride, Ron and me. Little Egypt however woke up and we had a bit of a row about me doing the Useless Bruceless Thing where I slip out the door at 5:30 am to return at Noon--all sunburned, covered with sweat and dirt from the road. Then I stumble around half-asleep--snoozing in the car on the way to the grocery store, falling asleep and snoring at the mall in one of those man-chairs while she's in the Petites...

I finally convinced Little E to let me out the door--and I sprinted off to meet Ron the Lion Heart at our rendezvous point. I can put in 50 miles and be back home before Little Egypt wakes up to the little birds singing Zip a dee Do Dah Sunday morning here in Interzone--but again, mes amis, she caught me but then let me go after all.

One thing about a road you've never been on is that point of no return. You hope that traffic will be light, the headwind far-off sleeping on his hairy back still, and maybe a bit of shoulder. We had all these and a bit more as we set out North of Lawrence past the furthest I've ever been on the road out of town.

With a strong tail wind we glided swiftly out of site of the city, and we were in, I do believe, a spot where God He Himself stepped down to take in a bit of his work around the place. I mean the crops were in the fields and emerald green and singing in the morning sun! Cows were in the green pastures being quite happy and small calves stopped for a look at us, then kicked up their heels and ran with us. Horses shone in the sun on the hills and seemed to want to come along. We saw sheep, and goats. Roosters did the cock a doodle do as we slipped past. The hills were rolling and smooth and the road black and healthy-looking like the earthy-smelling soil and mud.

So then it goes that you're not a big Clydesdale pushing a Mighty Trek on West Hwy 24--the thing happens where you're like a living wind--one with your breathing, your pedals, the road--and your eyes open.

The land is so green--and so alive--from every blade of grass to the little mouse peering at you from the cat tails on the side of the road. My goodness but there's a little village up ahead, and the speed you're going puts it in the perspective as it were a large living post card--the old houses (look new and straight and fresh) from the 1850's--(those first Kansas people) and a little church with cars parked around--then a wide turn--and there is the Old Cemetery containing those first Kansas people--and their children, and their grand-children, and great-grand children (all who lived to be very old themselves) and the crisp rows of Red White and Blue flags everywhere. Everyone Loved and Remembered this morning.

Where am I? What Road is this? It is almost a dream like place--I have to tell you that I am contained in my helmet and clipped in the pedals and reality is the bike and the road. But somehow we have ventured into a few moments of the Great Mystery.

It's not a scary place or creepy--there's no angels singing and God does not speak to you such that you shit your pants and have some sort of life-altering freak-out. Stay in the moment. Stay clipped in. Stay in your saddle. Reflect back at home and at work or before you hit the sack and go to sleep for the night that you have truly and ever-so-lightly tread where Heaven Meets Earth.

Allure Libre!

Bruce

Bike to Work Interzone

Every day is Bike to Work Day!

I wanted to drop by the LBS for a free breakfast, being Nat'l Bike to Work Day. So I ride through parts of old East Lawrence near where I live early this Friday morning, through the rugged brick-paved neighborhoods, for coffee and cakes.

Local Bike Shop at 8:45 a.m.

There's not much traffic this cool morning--only the most intrepid cyclists are out--rain is forecast for later in the morning. I believe I'll have plenty of time to talk to the friends I've made at the shop, and get a cup of coffee before I head up to Mt. Oread.

The Desert San Campus Bike, now my Interzone Commuter.

I was told that about 40 riders showed up and I think that's awesome! I don't go into the office until late morning on some days, so most of the real rush hour car traffic has faded out. My bike is a real commuter--most everyone else rides an old road bike or a cheapee mountain bike. I have fenders, a basket, a bell, and of course my wool cap. I only ride just over a mile--all up-hill--and I don't rush to get to the office on time--that would take too much work! Instead I leave The Little House with plenty of time to spare so I can take my time with a steady pace.

Coffee and cakes, and a cool brand-new Lawrence Bike Map.

Guy in the blue shirt is my neighbor and one of the managers of the LBS--he's also just turned 40 and has joined the Lawrence Fire Dept. Quite a feat I must say! He worked hard to reach that goal, competing with much younger men for the few slots at the Dept.

Historic old downtown--the bike shop is a real hub of the community where everyone is friendly and helpful--they have been to me, mes amis.

Did it ever rain!

After I talked to the guys, and met the local bike racing coach (Professional Ranked Coach) who I would really consider getting some coaching from because he was a great guy--some really dark clouds full of loud cracking thunder and flashing lightening, arrived and it began to rain. No worries because I had my rain gear stowed on the bike.

But as I got up Mt. Oread and just a few blocks from my office, it really let loose in a torrent, Gentle Readers of This Blog--and I was soaked to the bone in a matter of a few minutes! Rivers of water rushed down the streets of Mt. Oread, washing all the beer cans, cigarette butts, litter, and junk out of the gutters.

I made it to work--I had ridden my bike to work--but now I had little choice but to ride back home, change into dry clothes--and get a ride in with Little Egypt. She met me at home, I got out of the wet clothes and into dry--and she drove me up the Mountain to my office. The whole time it was raining cats and dogs--thunder was ear-splitting, and lightening bolts jolted all around.

Well, mon ami, I hope your Bike to Work Week and Day was a good one. Every day is Bike to Work Day for me for the last two months. This was the first day I rode in by automobile.

Cheers! Bruce

Monday's Child is Fair of Face

Kansas farmland on a bright sunny afternoon.

This past weekend was cold and dreary--it was if a chilly grey blanket stretched out over everywhere freezing us out after a long week in Interzone. I had Monday off, so when the clouds checked-out and the Sun shone clear and blue--I am on the bike!

Bon jour la bon jour, mes amis!

Late Monday afternoon and there's no headwind going out to Lone Star Lake--that means I am riding fast and furious--helped along with tunes from Rico's iPod. Normally I will not ride with an iPod, but with the messenger mirror set up now on my sunglasses, I can see cars coming up behind me on the long stretches of rural country road.

Many barns are white this year.

The Old Man.

Green dust in the muddy fields--crops are beginning to sprout!

Fast rollers on the road around Lone Star Lake.

Lone Star Lake, about twenty miles West of Lawrence, Kansas.

There was not a soul out at Lone Star Lake, Gentle Readers of This Blog--I zipped along the rolling road that hugged the banks, through towering thick newly green oak and walnut trees. Birds of all kinds darted past as I cut the silent cool air. The matter was actually a young hawk buzzing the canopy and creating a stir.

A memento of my ride.

The road around the lake ended--I was told that it would--it would have been nice if it went all the way around but I wanted to see for myself this once. Where pavement and gravel met, I found there one of the young hawk's feathers, and then there was a shadow speeding through the shadows of the oak limbs like a ghost. I looked up and he was flying above me. He gave me a glance and then banked back over the lake.

Time to go back I knew, but time to reflect on things... Leaving Tucson has been at times frustrating. Living here is an adjustment for us all; we're all together but this is just temporary--but for how long? School, jobs, a mortgage, and also rent to pay in Kansas. Often I feel like I'm having to start over and I will have to move again for employment. There are just no jobs in Arizona--and few now in Kansas. Like the road around the lake, it's a dead end--you're momentum is suddenly gone--the road has run out.

However, a reminder that you can soar above and beyond what's troubling, gives Hope that you can ride out what seems the tough Brevet that must be endured...

Allure Libre!

Bruce